The pedal stop adjusts the pedal height and the amount of play before the plunger rod engages the plunger. The more you shorten the rod, the lower the engagement point. I did this based on the advice of another poster who had suggested a range of 2.5 to 4 full turns, so you have to adjust it to suit yourself. This puts the pedal just a little higher than the brake instead of way higher. Then I adjusted the pedal stop so that there was a little play before I could feel the plunger rod engage the plunger. Anyway, after marking the original position, I shortened the plunger rod by three full turns. Search the net for complete and excellent description of the process by Super Car Tastes - Skoda Budget, etc. So make sure you scope out the situation completely and all that before you do it. Remember, this is clutch, an important part of your car and expensive to repair if you screw it up. Then i cleaned it, scuffed it up the best i cound with 80 gritt, cleaned it, and applied seal-all/seam sealer from autozone.To everyone who still hasn't gotten used to the high engagement point of the clutch, it is easy to adjust. I had to remove all the factory crap in the way that was covering the crack and go about a foot up in the dash to get it all visable. Use something like a metal coat hanger to clear out the drainage ports. Next I cleaned out the drain hole in the cowl under the fender liner on both sides the car. Click the two below video clip to see what was going on.Īnd here it is after it came completely out! I had to get this welded back into place as well. You can see in the below video as a result. The bracket that holds the clutch pedal was starting to apart from the location where we applied silicon. This is on the driver side right around the gauge clusterĮdit: The above location started leaking again a few thousand miles later. I then cut the water off, dried the area the best I could and applied some silicone. The water was shooting down the sound deadending, and out where the bolt hole is and down onto the clutch switch This is what the leak looked like on the inside on the driver side. I however it the water pool up as I currently don't have the carpet installed in my car and noticed the water swirling around these holes. I noticed a great deal of water coming in on my driver side floor board. Here on the driver side you can see me spraying water in the wiper cowl. Then the wiper cowl could come right off. First remove the caps off the wiper arms, unbolt the wiper arms (you will have to wiggle them off), remove the caps on each side of the wiper cowl and remove the two screws. The wiper cowl is held in my two screws and the wiper arms. I still have yet one more to find and ill update that once I correct that issue. First remove the wiper cowl as that’s where majority of my leaks were from but one. The next set of leaks are in the wiper cowl. My first leak was at the harness plug going into the cabin. you will never see that much water even with going through a car wash. NOTE: Keep in mind I have a water hose pointed directly in the wiper cowl on full blast. TwoI didn’t see a thread just for this so I figured I would post my findings on this.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |